Systemic retinoids (SRs) reduce sebum production, normalize keratinization, and reduce inflammation. The price of this effect is dryness, irritation, sun sensitivity, and a fragile skin barrier. Below is a skincare regimen that will help you complete the treatment more comfortably and maintain the results.
Basic Daily Strategy
Ultra-gentle cleansing once a night
Look for formulas without AHA/BHA and abrasives, with a high content of humectants (glycerin, betaine). A foam or cream-gel that doesn’t “squeak.” In the morning, simply apply water or a micellar lotion, then rinse.
Intensive Hydration and Barrier Repair
The goal is to restore lipids and water to the skin. The ideal triad of barrier components: ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids (3:1:1 ratio) in a lamellar emulsion. Apply 2-3 times daily as needed. Cover the driest areas with a thin layer of petroleum jelly or cold cream at night.
Daily SPF all year round
Filters – preferably mineral (zinc oxide/titanium dioxide) or hybrid if well-tolerated. Volume – at least 2 mg/cm², reapply every 2-3 hours outdoors. On cloudy days – yes, too, as skin on sunny days is more sensitive to UV.
Local “emergency” care
For erythema, tightness, and itching, add panthenol, allantoin, bisabolol, and glycyrrhizic acid. Low concentrations of niacinamide (2–5%) and ectoine help smooth capillary reactivity.
Water, air, routine
Reduce hot showers and saunas (they increase TEWL), use a humidifier in the bedroom, add slow carbohydrates, omega-3s, and adequate fluid intake—the barrier needs both lipids and water.
What to apply in the morning
First, apply a gentle toning step (thermal water or isotonic water), then an acid-free hydrating serum, then a barrier cream. Finish with SPF. Makeup is optional, but avoid aggressive makeup removal in the evening.
What to apply in the evening
Cleansing → hydrating serum/essence → barrier cream. For severe dryness, apply an occlusive cream to sensitive areas. Avoid acids, scrubs, brushes, or home microcurrents on irritated skin.
Body and Shower
For the body, use sulfate-free cleansing oils/cream gels. After showering (the “3-minute rule”), use a thick body cream with ceramides and 5-10% urea to retain moisture and soothe roughness.
What to avoid during a shower:
• Do not exfoliate with AHA/BHA or polyhydroxy acids, and do not use scrubs or harsh washcloths.
• Do not apply topical retinoids unless otherwise prescribed by a doctor.
• Do not combine with high concentrations of benzoyl peroxide without a doctor’s supervision.
• Avoid waxing/sugaring on reactive skin; shave gently, in the direction of hair growth, with foam.
• Use caution with laser hair removal and thermal procedures—only after consulting a dermatologist and in the absence of signs of retinoid dermatitis.
Cosmetology
We are postponing harsh instrumental treatments. The following are permitted (subject to consultation with a doctor and if well tolerated): non-invasive cleansing, gentle moisturizing/barrier treatments, blue/red LED panels in gentle modes, plasma therapy, and biorevitalization—as a supplement, not a replacement for therapy. Avoid home-based acids and peels.
Scalp and Hair
Telogen effluvium and hair breakage may increase during the winter. Use gentle sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners with amino acids/ceramides, minimize tight hairstyles and heat styling, and comb hair gently.
Little life hacks make a big difference
• Apply the cream to slightly damp skin—it will enhance hydration.
• Apply thin layers frequently: 2-3 thin applications a day are better than one thick layer.
• Keep a mini tube of barrier cream and lip balm in your bag—they’ll save you during the day.
In the Open Beauty Hub community, we explore effective skincare regimens using systemic retinoids, share product selections for different budgets, and customize protocols to suit your skin type and lifestyle without unnecessary fuss or irritation.