If you’ve ever scrolled through beauty reviews or sunscreen discussions, you’ve surely come across this neat categorization: old-generation vs. new-generation UV filters. It sounds so straightforward — old equals bad, new equals good. But let’s pause and ask: who decided this division, and does it really mean anything?
A brief history of UV filters without the boring bits
Humanity has tried to protect itself from the sun for centuries, from ancient Egyptian plant extracts to modern formulas. The first officially recognized filter was zinc oxide, and guess what — it’s still very much in use today. The first commercial sunscreen appeared only in 1928 with benzyl salicylate and benzyl cinnamate for UVB protection.
But the real turning point came in 1936 when L’Oréal’s founder Eugène Schueller launched Ambre Solaire with PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid). SPF testing began in the 1950s and the term itself was coined in 1974, becoming the global standard by 1978.
Soon after, PABA’s allergenic and photounstable nature became clear, prompting scientists to seek alternatives.
So what’s considered “old generation”?
Here’s when some of the so-called “old” filters appeared: PABA — patented in 1943, widespread until the 1960s
Benzophenone-3,4 — since the late 1960s
Octinoxate — patented in the 1950s, popular from 1985
Avobenzone — from the 1980s, peak from 1992
Octocrylene — used since the 1990s
Octisalate — used since the 1990s
Homosalate — recognized safe in 1978, actively used from the 2000s
Clearly, their timelines vary widely and many are still in use today.
And what about the “new generation”?
Mexoryl SX — patented in 1982, on the market from the 1990s
Tinosorb S and M — from the 2000s
Uvinul A Plus and T 150 — post-2010
Triasorb — launched in 2021
Again, there’s no clear-cut boundary here. Some “new” filters like Mexoryl SX are older than so-called “old” ones like Homosalate.
Does this distinction matter?
It’s a convenient marketing shortcut: new equals better. But in reality, this generational division doesn’t say much.
Are all new filters perfectly photostable, effective, and non-irritating? No. And old filters aren’t automatically weak or harsh. Each filter has its strengths, weaknesses, protection range, and formulation challenges.
Modern sunscreens often combine both “old” and “new” filters to optimize protection, stability, and cosmetic elegance.
Bottom line
The labels “old generation” and “new generation” don’t tell the full story. To understand what you’re putting on your skin, you need to look deeper — at the actual spectrum of protection, photostability, and how the whole formula works together.
Not everything new is automatically better, and not everything old is outdated.
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